Share :
A specialist in the skin microbiome, BYOME LABS leverages its unique expertise to drive cosmetic innovation.
With over 20 years of combined experience, the analysis of 5,000 sequencings and 250 scientific studies, our team has already supported 40 clients and conducted more than 100 projects dedicated to evaluating the impact of cosmetics on the microbiome. Through our in vitro tests, we help brands better understand and manage microbial imbalances, particularly those linked to acne, in order to develop skincare products that are both more effective and respectful of the skin.
Vulgar acne is a common dermatological condition primarily affecting adolescents and young adults (1,2). Its impact goes beyond aesthetics, as it can significantly affect quality of life and have serious psychological consequences (1,3). Historically, acne pathogenesis has been associated with several key factors, including excessive sebum production and follicular hyperkeratinization. However, recent research has highlighted the crucial role of the skin microbiome and its imbalance in the development and severity of this condition (1,3).
Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes) is a Gram-positive anaerobic bacterium that is naturally present on the skin, particularly in lipid-rich sebaceous glands (1). Certain Cutibacterium acnes strains, due to their pro-inflammatory properties and their ability to form biofilms, are now considered opportunistic agents in inflammatory acne (2).
Acne is not linked to a higher quantity of C. acnes, but rather to an imbalance between its phylotypes.
Indeed, the comparison between healthy skin and acne-prone skin highlights the central role of Cutibacterium acnes in acne pathogenesis. On normal skin, C. acnes exists as a commensal organism, in balance with other microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi, and viruses, without triggering inflammation. Immune homeostasis and barrier function are maintained. In contrast, in acne-prone skin, certain C. acnes strains proliferate excessively. They form protective biofilms (A), induce abnormal keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation accompanied by epidermal inflammation (B), stimulate sebocyte lipogenesis (C), and disrupt the skin immune response (D). This cascade of events leads to chronic inflammation and the formation of the characteristic acne lesions (3).
Among other bacteria influencing acne, some species of the genus Staphylococcus play a modulatory role. Staphylococcus epidermidis, for example, is a common skin bacterium that can limit the proliferation of C. acnes by producing natural antimicrobial substances (1,3). S. epidermidis coexists with C. acnes in acne lesions and suppresses the inflammation induced by C. acnes. Indeed, through the succinic acid it produces, S. epidermidis blocks certain defense receptors (TLRs) on the surface of keratinocytes. The release of inflammatory mediators such as IL-6 and TNF-α is reduced, which attenuates the inflammatory reaction triggered by C. acnes (4).
Malassezia: a fungus involved in certain forms of acne
While bacteria are often highlighted in acne pathogenesis, the role of certain fungi, notably Malassezia spp., should also be considered. This lipophilic microorganism is naturally present on the skin and can be involved in conditions such as seborrheic dermatitis. Studies have shown that Malassezia can be isolated from acne lesions, suggesting a potential influence in certain forms of acne (5).
Conventional acne treatments include topical retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, and oral antibiotics. While these approaches are effective at reducing inflammation and bacterial proliferation, they can also disrupt the balance of the skin microbiome. Furthermore, prolonged use of antibiotics can lead to a significant increase in bacterial resistance, affecting both C. acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis, which raises major public health concerns (6,7).
Indeed, acne treatments strongly influence the skin microbiome. Benzoyl peroxide, through its non-specific oxidative action, effectively reduces C. acnes but may also impact other skin microorganisms, with effects on microbial diversity that remain poorly understood (2). Other approaches, such as salicylic acid and phototherapy, may reduce the prevalence of dominant species, contributing to the restoration of a more balanced microbial diversity (2).
Given the limitations of conventional treatments, new therapeutic approaches are emerging that target the skin microbiome while preserving its balance. Certain probiotic strains, notably from the genera Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium, have shown beneficial effects on skin health. They help support a balanced microbial flora and positively modulate the skin’s immune response. Several recent studies suggest that topical application of probiotics could improve conditions such as acne by stimulating ceramide production, reducing inflammation, and enhancing protection against pathogenic microorganisms (6). Oral probiotics also appear effective in reducing lesion counts and inflammation through the gut-skin axis (6). Other approaches include bacteriophages that specifically target pathogenic C. acnes strains without affecting beneficial bacteria (6). Finally, postbiotics, which are bacterial metabolites, and antimicrobial peptides are being studied for their anti-inflammatory effects and their ability to restore skin homeostasis (6).
At BYOME LABS, we leverage our 20 years of combined expertise in the skin microbiome to support cosmetic, dermocosmetic, and pharmaceutical brands. We develop and conduct in vitro tests based on culturomics approaches, allowing us to evaluate the impact of products from different formulations on microorganisms representative of the skin microbiome. To design the best study models, we rely on the latest scientific data, including genomic sequencing studies and recent publications in the field. This enables us to recreate laboratory models of dysbiosis, including acne, and observe the action of your product in this specific context. You thus obtain scientific evidence demonstrating that your product has a preventive, corrective effect or simply preserves the balance of the skin microbiome in an acne context.
Did this article appeal to you and would you like to find out more about this topic?
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy
and Terms of Service apply.
An article highlighting our mission: On the path toward personalized skincare!
An article by La Montagne on the occasion of our nomination for the Puy-de-Dôme Business Awards: we were honored to win the prize in the ‘Elles innovent’ category!
Currently, choosing cosmetics is often done blindly due to the lack of precise indicators.” Discover our BYOME DERMA solution in this article.
